San Pedro 3 - Lagunas up and up!

Having had a day off, half a day in Valle de Luna and not completely suffered, we thought we should really flog ourselves and go over 4,000 metres.
However first we had to vist the Salar de Atacama - the salt flats populated by FLAMINGOES  and various other wildlife. When you've seen one flamingo, you haven't quite seen them all. A few weeks ago we were just happy to see any flamingoes - now we are seeing different sub-species!!! Before they were just standing, one-legged in the water, now they were flying and dancing. Some were completely pink, some were very pale pink, others had black tips on their behinds, some had big podgy beaks, others had long slender and slightly curved beaks. So all-in-all a common or garden variety just like any staffroom!!! (I can say that cos nobody at work is bothering to read the blog anyway   ; D.

dancing flaningoes

flying ones

another one(!)

The salt flats covered a large area beyond San pedro and stretched well towards the hills. While we were here we bumped into a few people,with other tour groups, who we'd met before (everyone comes to San Pedro!)











There was then a long drive uphill to the lagunas,, an interestingly coloured group of small lakes at 4,200 metres. the lagunas were interesting enough but it was the setting as much as anything else. For us, what was also positive about the trip was that it was the same people as on the Valle de Luna trip and also the same guide - so got to know one or two people a bit more.

View across to the salt flats

not a cloud in the sky!

not breathless at 4,200 metres!!

We didn't get breathless at 4,200 metres - at least in the first hour, but after we had had a picnic and were full of food (very nice it was as well!), we became progressively short of breath and eventually the legs started to protest. nevrtheless, the setting was amazing, the company was great and this was only our 2nd or 3rd day at altitude.
As the picnic ended a vicunya arrived on a tour to see some non-native tourists.

"there's cross-phase interference in the transporter, Scotty!"

that's better!

you're not getting us in that transporter!

after the lagunas came a couple of villages, one with a rather old church, where we were filled in on local syncretism, mix of christian and indigenous religious practices.


Our final trip from San Pedro was another astronomy tour. This time there was less moonlight and Venus had passed below the horizon!!! The guide (to the stars!) was even better than the previous one, throwing in quite a bit of wit (he was Canadian!) as he talked us through the skies. This time they had something like 10 or 12 telescopes pre-set on specific points in the sky. On the whole, they were more powerful than the ones near La Serena and therefore there was much more detail to see. We were even able to see the Big Red (pinky grey) Spot on Jupiter!  The Milky Way was huge and very clear (unlike the chocolate ones which have shrunk beyond recognition!) The locals indigenous groups refer to it as the River of Eternity (I think!). We saw lots of different nebulae that I can't remember the names of plus the position (many out of sight by this time) of every constellation and the rise of the Southern Cross. I also got to take another picture of the moon through the telescope.

This was the end of our trip through Chile (and Argentinian Patagonia). We both really enjoyed travelling in and visiting different parts of Chile - it really was our kind of place. So much so that we feel we really MUST come back some time (not sure when tho', Carmel!). The food was not often gourmet but it was enjoyable (and often lots of it!). We got through a lot of avocado.
Everything in the country was so easy and if we hesitated for one moment everyone was always keen to offer help.
there were a few things that stood out:
                                  1) car drivers - they actually stopped while you were waiting at the kerb (regardless of the size of road). They sometimes stopped when we were just trying to work out which direction to go. This is not the case in Peru!!)
                                  2) Nescafe (or local equivalent) - some places it was really difficult to get a good cup of coffee.
                                  3) people always stopping if they thought you needed help/advice.
                                  4) The dogs.  Many travellers remarked on  the large number of 'strays' there were in the country. It's true, there are a considerable number of dogs walking free. however, there is no sense of wildness with them. They are not the mad ravaged snarling specimens that can be encountered in many places. The vast majority appear to be relatively healthy and content. Many will walk alongside you as you walk the streets but they seemingly have no desire of anything but your company. Even when you are sitting at a table in an outdoor restaurant they come over but sit next to you or lie on the floor. There is no sense that they are waiting for the slightest crumb to hit the floor. Some of the younger dogs seem to have regular friends that they wait for (groups of 2 or 3) and then happily trot off somewhere. Occasional groups of two or three like to play chicken with the traffic (especially taxis) but are never a threat to
pedestrians.

overall a great place - definitely worth a revisit- particularly patagonia which needs more detailed investigation.  We were sad to leave.

However, Peru lay ahead of us and would start with our 24 hour trip via Arica & Tacna to Arequipa.